Fall Chore List

This is a good time to order and plant spring flowering bulbs for next year's early flower display. Plan for different flowering times to extend the season.

Continue deadheading flowers which will allow plants to use energy reserves for a final flower display.

Some perennial flowers and bulbs will start to go dormant this month. Marking their location with a painted popsicle stick or drawing out a map of your bed is helpful come spring so you don’t forget where things are.

Remove old plants which have stopped producing to eliminate a shelter for insects and disease organisms.

Every weed that produces seed means more trouble next year. Control weeds before they go to seed.

The earlier in late summer or early fall you can plant bearded iris the better results you will have.

Many fibrous rooted perennials should be transplanted every 3 -5 years as a general rule. Fall is the time to divide and transplant plants that flower in the spring. Divide peonies and iris. Cut back tops to 4 -6" to reduce transplant stress.

Keep harvesting second plantings of the cool season vegetables including radishes, lettuce, Chinese cabbage, chard, spinach, broccoli, and the other cole crops.

Allow plants to finish the summer growth cycle in a normal manner. Never encourage growth with heavy applications of fertilizer or excessive pruning. Plants will delay their dormancy process that has already begun in anticipation of winter in the months ahead. New growth can be injured by an early freeze.

Fall is a good time for improving your garden soil. Add manure, compost, wood ash and leaves to increase the organic matter content. Wood ashes contain phosphorous, potassium and calcium. They can be placed on vegetable gardens and flower beds as a top dressing that will feed into the soil all winter.

Be sure to keep strawberry beds weed free. Every weed you pull now will help make weeding much easier next spring.

Take cuttings from herbs to propagate inside: basil, mint, and rosemary plant after the flower has finished blooming in late summer.

Overwinter non-hardy herbs- thyme, lavender, salvia, etc... move inside to shelves and lights in basement. Water only occasionally over the winter months.

Dig up and divide wild daffodils. Push the tines of a garden fork into the soil, about 4 inches from the base of the daffodil clump. Pull the fork's handle away from the clump so the tines lift the bulbs. Dig around the clump, lifting as you work, until the soil is loosened enough to lift the bulbs from the ground without damaging them. Shake the excess soil from the bulbs. Inspect each bulb and dispose of any with damage, soft spots or that appear shriveled. Break apart the new bulbs from the larger main bulbs. Twist the two bulbs gently in opposite directions until they snap apart. Bulbs more than 1 1/2 inches in diameter usually bloom the following spring, while smaller bulbs may take up to two years before they flower. Plant the new bulbs in a bed that receives full sunlight and isn't prone to standing water. Bury the bulbs with the flat bottom set at a depth three times the bulb's width. Space bulbs 4 to 6 inches apart in clusters of five to seven bulbs. Water sparingly through summer and fall so the soil doesn't dry out completely. New growth emerges in late winter or early spring.

Plant spring flowering bulbs. Once your daytime temperatures are in the 60’s or lower consistently, this is a good time to plant your tulips.

Dig and divide spring and summer flowering perennials now. Late summer and fall flowering ones can be done in the spring. Cut foliage back, replant and water well. Wait until winter is in full-swing to add new mulch for winter protection during their first winter.

Save seeds from favorite self-pollinating, non-hybrid flowers such as marigolds by allowing the flower heads to mature. Lay seeds on newspaper and turn them often to dry. Store the dry seeds in glass jars or envelopes in a cool, dry, dark place.

Comfrey cuttings make an excellent bio-activator in the compost bin. If you have a large amount of dried brown material—such as fall leaves—layering it with comfrey cuttings is an efficient way to balance out the carbon-to-nitrogen ratio and jumpstart decomposition.

Make a note of any particular productive or unsatisfactory varieties of vegetables that you planted this year. Such information can be very useful when planning next years' garden.

Remove, chop, and compost asparagus tops after they have yellowed and died for the season. Wait until the ground has frozen to mulch.

Cut strawberry foliage down to one inch. This can be done after the first couple of frosts, or when air temps reach 20°F (-6°C). Mulch strawberry and asparagus plants about 4 inches deep with straw.

Protect Hydrangea- winter mulch, mound shredded leaves or bark mulch around the base of the plant to about 12 inches or so, in late fall after the ground freezes, and uncover plants in spring when temperatures begin to stay above freezing. Do NOT prune in fall- best pruning is to simply remove any dead canes after the hydrangea sprouts in the spring.

Lavender- You can use a frost cloth, burlap, or an old lightweight blanket to provide extra protection from freezing winds. Use rocks, bricks, or any heavy item to hold down the perimeter of the fabric so it doesn’t blow off. Adding a layer of natural mulch around the root zone such as shredded leaves, straw or wood chips can also be beneficial in harsh winter climates; be sure to pull mulch away from the main stem to maintain good air circulation. Wait until the first hard frost before you cover your lavender plants; this will signal to the plant it's going into dormancy. Also, wait until the evening temperatures are consistently dropping into the mid-twenties before applying a frost cover.

Gardening by the Yard