Spring Chores 2023

• Add circle of wide wire mesh to Peony tomato cage for support, BEFORE they start growing!

• Repaint green trellis a more subdued shade of green! Put second brace on each side and one on the bottom where there are currently none.

• Move Lemon Balm to the front of the herb bed right by the fence. That will make a nice screen in case other things do not look as appealing through the fence. 

• Prepare the herb bed for Anise Hyssop, and Lovage. Add another tube for irrigation, maybe use two or three sprayers because they like to be moist, not wet. Leave some space to interplant hardneck garlic in the fall. 
  
  
  

• Attach the bird netting to the asparagus/strawberry bed with flaps that can be velcroed to the side for easier access.

• Find pine straw for mulch for strawberries, maybe rake some from the pine trees next door.

• Use DRIED grass clippings for mulch for tomatoes. Use the catching attachment on the lawn mower and apply in thin layers. Allow extra to dry in the sun.

• Add additional fence posts in the middle of the fence. 

• Plant borage along the back (where lemon balm was- add black fencing for support) and side of the bed to provide support.

• Divide catmint in the spring. Dig up the parent plant and make a vertical cut to shear through the root ball. Make sure each division has a nice clump of roots and at least three or four stems on it. Once you have divided the plant, replant divisions about a foot apart at the top of the new front slop planting bed.

• Forsythia Propagation- Continue the forsythia hedge across the front by Zenner Road.  Take spring cuttings from new plant growth as soon as forsythia comes into leaf.

• Peony- An annual application of compost mixed with a very small amount of fertilizer around the base of the plant is all that is needed. When you do feed with compost and fertilizer, do it just after the plants have finished blooming.

• Use Large Chip Bark to Mulch the front slope after planting.
• Move the thicker slate stone from the garden to the front slope.

Comfrey- Divide in spring 2024 

Dividing Mature Comfrey Plants

Plants are mature at 2 years or older and continue to expand slowly every year. So once a plant is large and well established you can divide it into more plants. It is a hardy plant and almost all transplants survive. Add the transplants along the top of the slope; there should be plenty of sun once that crummy tree is removed.

Divide by pushing your shovel vertically all the way through the plant in the middle of the crown (this photo). Take half of the crown with the roots. Divide the roots into 6-8 inch pieces and plant elsewhere.

Or drive a shovel horizontally through the leaf clump about 3-4 inches below the soil surface. This removes the crown. Divide it into 6 inch pieces preferably ones with growing buds.

Broccoli

• Make a structure for the broccoli cloth. Structure can be simple rectangle, the supports for the broccoli plants themselves will hold up the center. Attach the netting with velcro to easily lift for weeding. Leave a few extra inches hanging off to cover the gap at the bottom.
• Put aluminum can  or bottomless milk jug over the seedlings for protection from wind until they are established. Use tomato cages to support the mature plants. Put additional stake (or two) though the tomato cages for extra support. Or if Broccoli is curved from the start, use two 4' stakes and flexible garden tape to stake the plant.

• Make more space for broccoli, expanding top and bottom of beds. Leave just enough space to get the wheelbarrow in. Four plants gave a good amount of broccoli, but eight plants would be better. Plants could be planted a little closer together and subsequent planting could be put in the same bed. Use fish emulsion to fertilize broccoli.

Zucchini

Zucchini did terrible this year, trying a new variety may help, also try the weird staking tree strategy and see if it works.

Flowers

Hydrangeas- For optimal growth, bloom production, and quality, fertilize three times:

• In early spring when plants are just leafing out
• In early May to boost their flower production for summer
• In late June/early July to help your plants finish the summer strong

In early spring, put up new fence for garbage cans. You must do this before you can get digging otherwise you will trample the new flowers.

Get Kier to help and move the large rock to the front slope. Put the rock in the steepest spot where it will be difficult to grow anything.

Make the bed by the garbage cans the purple bed.

• Pullout the Catmint and move it to the slope. Remove the remaining Hostas and move to the side of the house. 
• Remove most of the soil and put down a layer of poultry grit for drainage.  Replace soil without adding compost. Lavender like poor soil.
• Move Lavender from herb bed and add new Munstead lavender seedlings. Label well to study which does better. New seedlings will take a year to bloom. 
• Between lavender add Sedum plants (Sedum seboldii October Daphne’s ) Low sedum will grow in front and between lavender, esp. in the first year as it fills in.

Nigella Damascena don't like to be transplanted, so try planting seedlings, but otherwise, succession sow seeds every three weeks. Be sure to plant one last time in late September for an early spring crop. Harvest half of the seeds and leave the rest to hopefully self-seed.

Materials and Equipment

• garden twine- you are almost out
• 10- 6' garden stakes for staking Thistle and for stabilizing the black trellis in the asparagus bed
• More tomato cages for Broccoli
• Get a dump truck delivery of soil for the low spots at the end of the driveway and to fill in the slope part that you dug out last spring
• Wooden garden stakes for the wildflower bed to keep the town from mowing there.
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Fall Chores List

 

Fall Chore List

August

• This is a good time to order and plant spring flowering bulbs for next year's early flower display. Plan for different flowering times to extend the season.

• Continue deadheading flowers which will allow plants to use energy reserves for a final flower display.

• Some perennial flowers and bulbs will start to go dormant this month. Marking their location with a painted popsicle stick or drawing out a map of your bed is helpful come spring so you don’t forget where things are.

• Remove old plants which have stopped producing to eliminate a shelter for insects and disease organisms.

• Every weed that produces seed means more trouble next year. Control weeds before they go to seed.

September

• The earlier in late summer or early fall you can plant bearded iris the better results you will have.

• Make preparations for mulching your beds for the winter. 

• Many fibrous rooted perennials should be transplanted every 3 -5 years as a general rule. Fall is the time to divide and transplant plants that flower in the spring. Divide peonies and iris. Cut back tops to 4 -6" to reduce transplant stress. 

• Keep harvesting second plantings of the cool season vegetables including radishes, lettuce, Chinese cabbage, chard, spinach, broccoli, and the other cole crops. 

• Allow plants to finish the summer growth cycle in a normal manner. Never encourage growth with heavy applications of fertilizer or excessive pruning. Plants will delay their dormancy process that has already begun in anticipation of winter in the months ahead. New growth can be injured by an early freeze.

• Fall is a good time for improving your garden soil. Add manure, compost, wood ash  and leaves to increase the organic matter content. Wood ashes contain phosphorous, potassium and calcium. They can be placed on vegetable gardens and flower beds as a top dressing that will feed into the soil all winter.

• Be sure to keep strawberry beds weed free. Every weed you pull now will help make weeding much easier next spring.

• Take cuttings from herbs to propagate inside: basil, mint, and rosemary plant after the flower has finished blooming in late summer. 

• Overwinter non-hardy herbs- thyme, lavender, salvia, etc... move inside to shelves and lights in basement. Water only occasionally over the winter months.

• Sow seeds in wildflower bed, add compost and sow seeds.

October

• Dig up and divide wild daffodils. Push the tines of a garden fork into the soil, about 4 inches from the base of the daffodil clump. Pull the fork's handle away from the clump so the tines lift the bulbs. Dig around the clump, lifting as you work, until the soil is loosened enough to lift the bulbs from the ground without damaging them. Shake the excess soil from the bulbs. Inspect each bulb and dispose of any with damage, soft spots or that appear shriveled. Break apart the new bulbs from the larger main bulbs. Twist the two bulbs gently in opposite directions until they snap apart. Bulbs more than 1 1/2 inches in diameter usually bloom the following spring, while smaller bulbs may take up to two years before they flower. Plant the new bulbs in a bed that receives full sunlight and isn't prone to standing water. Bury the bulbs with the flat bottom set at a depth three times the bulb's width. Space bulbs 4 to 6 inches apart in clusters of five to seven bulbs. Water sparingly through summer and fall so the soil doesn't dry out completely. New growth emerges in late winter or early spring.

• Plant spring flowering bulbs. Once your daytime temperatures are in the 60’s or lower consistently, this is a good time to plant your tulips. 

• Drain the hoses and empty the bird baths before a hard frost.

• Dig and divide spring and summer flowering perennials now. Late summer and fall flowering ones can be done in the spring. Cut foliage back, replant and water well. Wait until winter is in full-swing to add new mulch for winter protection during their first winter.

• Cut and dry or freeze remaining herbs.

• Save seeds from favorite self-pollinating, non-hybrid flowers such as marigolds by allowing the flower heads to mature. Lay seeds on newspaper and turn them often to dry. Store the dry seeds in glass jars or envelopes in a cool, dry, dark place.

• Comfrey cuttings make an excellent bio-activator in the compost bin. If you have a large amount of dried brown material—such as fall leaves—layering it with comfrey cuttings is an efficient way to balance out the carbon-to-nitrogen ratio and jumpstart decomposition.

• Make a note of any particular productive or unsatisfactory varieties of vegetables that you planted this year. Such information can be very useful when planning next years' garden.

• Propagate flowers and herbs by cuttings- African Daisy and Rosemary.

Late October/ November

• Remove, chop, and compost asparagus tops after they have yellowed and died for the season. Wait until the ground has frozen to mulch.

• Cut strawberry foliage down to one inch. This can be done after the first couple of frosts, or when air temps reach 20°F (-6°C). Mulch strawberry and asparagus plants about 4 inches deep with straw.

• Protect Hydrangea- winter mulch, mound shredded leaves or bark mulch around the base of the plant to about 12 inches or so, in late fall after the ground freezes, and uncover plants in spring when temperatures begin to stay above freezing. Do NOT prune in fall- best pruning is to simply remove any dead canes after the hydrangea sprouts in the spring. 

• Lavender- You can use a frost cloth, burlap, or an old lightweight blanket to provide extra protection from freezing winds. Use rocks, bricks, or any heavy item to hold down the perimeter of the fabric so it doesn’t blow off. Adding a layer of natural mulch around the root zone such as shredded leaves, straw or wood chips can also be beneficial in harsh winter climates; be sure to pull mulch away from the main stem to maintain good air circulation. Wait until the first hard frost before you cover your lavender plants; this will signal to the plant it's going into dormancy. Also, wait until the evening temperatures are consistently dropping into the mid-twenties before applying a frost cover. 

What I'm Growing in 2023

 

What I'm Growing this Year

Seeds 

Tomato- Go back to the Chadwick Cherry tomato from Burpee

Broccoli-Gurney worked well, got some decent heads, growing again. The netting from the very first minute after planting is essential to keep the moths out. Make a cage attach the netting to it. Looks neater and will be easier to work with.

Zucchini- Gurney These came up, produced flowers, but never any zuchinni. Try Burpee?

Borage Borago officinalis - Strictly Medicinal Seeds

Nasturtiums- Empress of India-Strictly Medicinal Seeds  Both of these did well this year, grow again next year. 

Borage Fertilizer Tea

Cover borage leaves in a small amount of water in a sealed container for two weeks for a concentrated fertilizer tea. Use the strained solution with water in a 1:10 ratio every couple of weeks on your garden, applied either as a foliar feed or at soil level. 

Hardneck garlic varieties (Allium sativum var. ophioscorodon), as their name implies, are generally hardier than softneck varieties. Hardneck varieties are the best option for Northern gardeners. They tend to form fewer cloves per bulb than softneck varieties, but they are most often a bit larger. Plant in the fall just before the last frost. Harvest 240 days from planting, probably around July 4.

White Sage- Western Mugwort, (Artemisia ludoviciana)- Strictly Medicinal Seeds Came on REALLY slowly in the pots. Maybe will do better once it's in the herb bed.

Basil- use leftover seeds

Lavender- This year, try Munstead Lavender from the Hudson Valley Seed Company. These are supposed to be cold hardy lavender. Remember that lavender take two years to establish anyway.

Marigold- Strawberry Blonde- Burpees- Prettier marigold than the orange ones. Plant in the visible sections of the garden. Save the rest of the seeds for next year.The blond marigold did turn blond after starting out reddish orange. Might not be worth the extra cost. 

Thyme- English thyme from Hudson Valley Seed Co.

Seedlings or Crowns

Rhubarb- Chipman's Canada Red Rhubarb Gurney-Order another plant since the first one got eaten. by something. It might come up, otherwise, you still want lots anyway! Wait to harvest the second or third year.

Driveway Bed

Inspiration from Gardenia.net. Rework this bed to make it cleaner. Move the hostas to the side of the house and move the Russian sage (catmint?) to the back of the slope.

Dig out the existing dirt and make it worse! for the lavender. Buy one bag (2?) of poultry grit from Tractor Supply to make the soil well-draining. Use Yarrow and Sedum October Daphne to set off the Lavender. Maybe the Munstead lavender will do better than the lavender in the garden. Remember that it won't flower the first year.

Front Slope Seeds to Start

Salvia- Victoria- Burpee- There are already three tall, spiky flowers in this bed, so don't go crazy with these. Save remaining seeds for next year.

Cornflower Blue Boy- Burpee- Start as many seeds as possible, and then direct sow the rest to fill in the middle section of the bed. This will go together in the same space as the Nigella and Yarrow. These plants are good for filling in the spaces between the clumping plants. I am not really looking for a cottage garden look, but more of a formal border, so I'm not really sure these flowers work for my plan.

Zinnia White Wedding- Burpee- Start as many seeds as possible, and then direct sow the rest. Make big groupings of this at the front of the bed as they are only 6" high. 

White Yarrow- Achillea Millefolium- Outside Pride and Baker Creek. Start as many seeds as possible, (Winter Sowing) and then direct sow the rest. Use at the back of the slope as it gets 36" high. Interplant with Nigella and Cornflower. Apparently this is a dynamic accumulator plant, so harvest and add to compost and top dress veggie beds.

Slope- Plants 

Catmint- Walker's Low- Burpee It seems the you can't buy seeds for this variety, so I bought one plant. Plan to divide in three years. Move existing catmint from the driveway bed to the top of the slope.

Silver Carpet Lambs' Ear - High Country Gardens

These did well and will probably continue to spread. Buy two more for 2023, plant one in the Front Slope and plant one by birdbath. Dig up the best one and give it to Teagan (Karys' sister) along with whatever potted lavender best makes it through the winter. 

Phlox- Phlox paniculata Blue Flame dwarf and Phlox-Phlox paniculata Flame® PRO White- This seems like the perfect plant for the front slope, it likes full sun and only gets 12-20" tall , 18" wide. Get two plants each of blue and white to use in the front of the slope. 

Daisy- Blue Disc African Daisy Baker Creek Seeds- 

These are so cute and I am very excited about them. It's easy to grow from seed and thrives in poor soil that is well drained. Drought tolerant once established. It's an annual, so if I like it, I'll have to start seeds every year, but it might be worth it.

Salvia Salvia farinacea Sirius Blue Sage- Baker Creek Seeds- Tender perennial, so we'll see if it survivies from year to year. I just don't know if there are Salvia that don't need to be re-planted from year to year. Use at the front of the bed as it is 16" high.

Nigella Miss Jekyll Mix Love-in-a-Mist Nigella damascena- Baker Creek Seeds-  Interesting flowers, it's more of a cottage garden flower, so not sure that I'll keep this long term, but we'll see. Use in the middle of the slope with cornflower, rose campion and yarrow.

Hydrangea Hydrangea macrophylla Blue Jangles- Obviously this is the perfect plant for a blue and white bed. Not quite sure if this spot is really good for a hydrangea. Prefers dappled shade or morning sun with afternoon shade. I will also probably have to water it every week, even after it gets established.

Delphinium Delphinium Belladonna Mix - Tall, mix of blues and whites, use at the back of the bed, needs support.

Dianthus Siberian Blues' Seeds- Park Seed- Seems pretty cool flower well suited to the slope. Shirt-lived perennial, so save the seeds and re-seed every other year.

Rose Campion- Rose Campion white Evening Lychnis seeds- Seedville USA

Wildflower Bed 

I covered the area in cardboard and tarp for the summer. In late fall of 2022, I cleared the area and broadcast Eastern Pollinator mix from Hudson Valley Seeds. If it works out and the flowers come up nicely, buy two more 4 ounce bags. Reseed the left side and also seed the newly cleared area. 

Eastern Pollinator mix- Annual and perennial mix contains Partridge Pea, Purple Coneflower, Coreopsis, Indian Blanket, Wild Sunflower, Perennial Lupine, Butterfly Milkweed, Wild Indigo, Spiderwort, Eastern Columbine, Lemon Mint, New England Asters, Showy Tick Trefoil, Black-Eyed Susan, Lavender Hyssop, New England Asters, Plains Coreopsis, Spotted Bee Balm, and Gray Golden Rod.

Milkweed- Northern - Syriaca- Live Monarch

Green Twister Coneflower- Died quickly after planting. It was a cool idea, but it might not work. Maybe it will come up again? Maybe try another source? 

Herbs

 Herbs 2023

Lovage- fresh flavor that tastes a bit like citrusy celery

Anise Hysopp- Once established, its heavily-scented, slightly fuzzy purply-green leaves are some of the first to emerge in the spring. 

English thyme- It can be harvested until buried in snow and then as soon as the snow melts in spring. 

Rosemary- purchase new plants in the spring, if plants from last year do not overwinter.

White Sage- Put around birdbath, maybe invasive and is not hardy. Overwinter in the basement.

Lemon Balm- They say you can't kill this plant. I am about to find out by moving it for the third year in a row. Move to the front of the "moist" herb bed against the fence. Hopefully this is where it will stay.

Mint- leave this around the bird bath fountain.

Basil- Continue to interplant with tomatoes.

Garlic- not strictly an herb, but grow in the "moist" bed. Plant in the fall for an early season harvest.

July 2022

 

July 2022

The wild flowers in front of the porch are growing so slowly? Poor soil? Needs fertilizer? 

Again this year, the lavender is doing nothing, literally. The rosemary and lavender I planted have grown an inch. I'll protect them this winter, bringing in the ones in pots and overwintering them in the basement.  Ordering some Munstead lavender which is supposed to be an English more hardy lavender. I'll give it another chance and then give up on lavender and move on to something else.

The lemon balm did great, but that was not really a good place to plant that. Since it does well with no help, maybe move it to the front of the herb bed by the fence? The borage needs support, so either plant against the fence or add support as soon as they sprout.