Quest for Rhubarb

Rhubarb

Try potted plants from Gade Farms in the spring 2024

Rule of Thumb

First year- let it grow, don't harvest

Second year- harvest any broomstick sized stalks until Father's Day, let the rest grow

Third year on- harvest broomstick sized stalks until August 1

Let it die back on its own in winter, don't cut back

Four plants are good for one family.

• In spring, plant crowns when the soil is workable, when the roots are still dormant, and before growth begins (or as plants are just beginning to leaf out). If you have a temperature gauge, soil temperature should be 50°F minimum.
• Dig large, bushel-basket-size holes.
• Space rhubarb plants about 2 to 4 feet apart and 3 to 4 feet between rows.
• Plant crowns so the eyes are about 2 inches below the soil surface with buds facing up.
• Water well at the time of planting.

Overcrowding is a common problem with rhubarb and can lead to subpar growth. Dig and split rhubarb roots every 3 to 4 years. Divide when plants are dormant in early spring (or late fall). Divisions should have at least one large bud on them. 

• Mulch generously with a heavy layer of straw to retain moisture and discourage weeds.

• Water your plant well and consistently. Rhubarb needs sufficient moisture, especially during the hot, dry summer days. 

• Remove seed stalks as soon as they appear, as they will only drain energy from the plant that could be used to produce stalks or roots.

• Each spring, apply a light sprinkling of a fertilizer (10-10-10) when the ground is thawing or has just thawed. 

• In the fall, remove all plant debris. Once your ground freezes, it’s best to cover rhubarb with 2 to 4 inches of organic mulch, preferably well-rotted compost. By adding nitrogen to the soil, you’re preparing the rhubarb plants for a good spring season.

Forcing Rhubarb

In early spring, when a few leaves have just started to emerge from the ground, cover the plant with a large pot. You can even look for special rhubarb forcers: large, terra cotta, bell-shaped containers specially made for the task. Block any holes or gaps in the pot so that no light can get in, and place a layer of straw around the outside of the pot to insulate it. Allow the plant to grow in darkness for about eight weeks before harvesting. After harvesting, the forced plants should be given a season or two to recover before forcing again.

Veronica

Varieties 

Spiked Speedwell (Veronica Spicata)

My favorite so far. Planted at the bottom of the slope, but they are too tall. Move to the back of the slope in early spring 2024. 

Speedwell (Veronica teucrium Royal Blue)

More mounding habit, 18", planted at the top of the slope in 2023, didn't do much. Let's see what happens in 2024.

Propagation

Lift and divide the plants every three or four years in the early spring or early fall. This will keep the plants vigorous, and the outer portions can be replanted. Take your divisions from the outer edges of the plant. They are more likely to root than the inner parts of the plant.

Other Varieties to Try

Veronica longifolia First Glory 

Veronica spicata 'Royal Candles'

Veronica Blue Skywalker 

Magic Show 'Wizard of Ahhs' Spike Speedwell Veronica hybrid

Corner Cottage Garden

Trying again 2025

Plants

Globe Thistle- back of border, seeds

Russian Sage- transplants from front slope

Lavender- front of border, potted plants (if they survive)

Salvia Farinacea- leftover seeds, in the future, find a light purple variety

Coreopsis American Dream- front of border, seeds

Spotted Bee Balm- front of border, seeds

Veronica White Wands- 3 plants Bluestone Perennials 2025

Hyssop blue- as a border or specimen plant

Herbs: dill, fennel, borage, anise hyssop (move from the veggie garden), feverfew (small daisy)

New plants to try in 2026

Calendula Zeolights or Snow Princess- seed 

White Swan Coneflower- seed 

Canterbury Bells white or the periwinkle if you can find seeds

Phlox-

Snapdragons- Can be a little tricky to start from seed, but come in so many colors! 

Cranesbill- Hardy Geranium

Purple sage- foliage for cottage garden

African Daisy- I really don't have room for anything else starting from seed this year. But I do have those leftover seeds.... I really like how they look and are very unique.

Try pinching young African daisies two or three times early in the growing season, creates a sturdy stem and a full, bushy plant. Simply pinch the tips of new growth, removing the stem to the second set of leaves. Don’t pinch the plant after flower buds appear, as you’ll delay blooming.

Cottage Garden 2024

Globe Thistle (Echinops) growing with
  Veronica White Wands and Russian Sage.

Maybe this is the time to go back to that far corner of the property and plant something. I really like so many of the "cottage garden" plants, but they don't fit in the formal perennial bed or the front slope. This spot might just work out. The two problems are that the soil is not good and that it is a long way to drag a hose to water. So, amend this soil with a few bags of compost, alternate the sprinkler between the wildflower bed and here. Will also have to trim back the crappy tree so this whole corner is not shaded. 

White Swan Coneflower 
                                                          

I really like the Echinops Globe Thistle, it might be the kind of thing that easily gets out of control by self-seeding, so maybe the front slope is not a good space for it. It seems that the Veitch's Blue is a little more restrained. I like the look of it with the Veronica. I also  wonder how it would look with White Swan coneflower. All are a  similar 36"+ tall. This would be great in the back of the garden.

Because it will be right next to the Blush and Cream border, try to keep a similar theme. Use mainly white or pastel colors.  If I use up the blue flowers that didn't work out on the front slope, this should look ok. Some of these tall flowers need supports. Clear the ugly brush from this area, but add tall stakes and twine for supports.

Transplants

Move all of the cottage garden plants off the front slope and into this corner. The front slope really should be more low-growing, mounding type flowers and shrubs.

Globe Thistle

Russian Sage

Yarrow

Salvia Farniacea- short sage, use in front of bed

Since re-thinking the lavender in the front of the garden, the cottage corner might be the only place for it. I've seen some gardens with lavender in the front. Move lavender from garbage can bed and herb garden to this spot. Make sure it is in the sunny corner.

Move the Dianthus Arctic Fire to the front of this bed. 

If they come back up, move the Delphinium to this corner. Maybe try Winter Sowing, this seems to be recommended. They were difficult to start inside last year. 

See what comes up on the slope from last year and move those to the corner: Yarrow, Russian Sage, Salvia Farincea, Globe Thistle, etc...

When the catmint is ready to divide again, perhaps in two years, add the divisions in the front of this Corner Cottage garden bed. This might be a good time to replace the Walkers low with Walkers Deep Blue.

Direct Sow

Use up the rest of these seeds (direct sow) cornflower, yarrow, nigella, Russian Sage, African Daisy, Salvia Farincea, Globe Thistle

Also ordered White coneflower and White Veronica to add to this corner. Will start these by winter sowing. 

Front of Bed

Dianthus Arctic Fire- transplant from front slope to the front of this bed

Bloody Cranesbill- Geranium- clump forming, maybe purchase next year

Coreopsis uptick Cream- Large creamy white flowers reveal a buttery yellow aura that peeks around a golden-orange button center. Height 12-14″.

Lambs Ear- transplant where there is enough in the front slope

Pearl Yarrow- once the front slope has enough

 

 Broccoli

• Set up structure for the broccoli cloth. Sew cover to fit over new frame. Sew with tissue paper between layers to prevent breaking needle. Sew with long, basting stitches. Cut to fit the frame, with openings (overlapping on corners) on ends and one long side.
• Put bottomless milk jug over the seedlings for protection from wind until they are established. (Drill holes along bottom two inches to allow drainage, cut down the side to easily remove once plants are established.) Use tomato cages to support the mature plants. Put additional stake (or two) though the tomato cages for extra support. Or if Broccoli is curved from the start, use two 4' stakes and flexible garden tape to stake the plant. From Diane Mumm 

• Make more space for broccoli, expanding top and bottom of beds. Leave just enough space to get the wheelbarrow in. Four plants gave a good amount of broccoli, but six or eight plants would be better. Plants could be planted a little closer together and subsequent planting could be put in the same bed. 
• Use pine straw mulch.  
• Fertilize broccoli three weeks after transplanting seedlings into the garden. Use a low-nitrogen fertilizer, such as a 5-10-10 formula. Use fish emulsion to fertilize broccoli.
• Direct sow second crop of broccoli in July. 

Zucchini 

Try information from Cooperative Extension.

Plant more plants to improve pollination, instead of four plants, plant six.

Remember, these will be planted among the garlic. Garlic should come up by early May, so it should be easy to plant around. Garlic should be harvested un July, before the zucchini gets too large and shades it out.

Direct seeding is preferred for starting squash, so do NOT start indoors this year. Squash seeds will not germinate in cold soil. Plants started indoors and set out into cold soil will also not grow very well. Squash plants started indoors also fail to grow in the garden because of damage during transplanting.

Try putting down black plastic a week before planting to raise temperature 5 degrees. Use a soil (compost?) thermometer and sow seeds after the last frost date, once soil temperatures are at least 70° F at the two-inch depth. In most of Minnesota, this will be sometime in late May, or early June in the north.

For a longer, more even harvest, seed only part of your squash garden at first, and then finish the planting three weeks later.

Create mounds (6-8' high; the soil is warmer off the ground) with only two to three feet between. Plant three or four seeds sown close on each mound, then thin out once they have set fruit and start getting big. Sow seeds about a half-inch deep. If necessary, use plastic milk jugs for the first few weeks of spring. Thoroughly water after planting. Cover mounds with black plastic to preserve moisture in soil and keep soil warmer. Drip emitters should be placed on each mound, under the black plastic.

 Limelight hydrangea

Planting Limelight hydrangea

• Start by digging a hole twice the width of your Limelight hydrangea root ball and roughly the same depth of the root ball. Your plant should be just slightly higher than the surrounding soil.

• Backfill the hole with soil halfway and pour water into the hole until it rises to the top. After it fully drains away, finish filling in the rest of the soil. If you do not have well-draining soil, you’ll want to plant your Limelight hydrangea tree in a 24-inch mound to make sure it doesn’t get soggy roots.

• To maintain evenly moist soil, water every week to 10 days. Do not overwater—only give your Limelight hydrangea water when the top two inches of soil are dry. You can test this by inserting your index finger into the surrounding soil to check for moisture.

1 Gal. Limelight Hardy Hydrangea $40

        grows to 6'-8' , plant 6' on center

        Buy four= $160

1 Gal. Limelight 'Prime' Hydrangea $40

        grows 4-6', plant 5' on center

        Buy five = $200

Plant 6' (or 5') on center between the house and driveway, leaving space for walkway to the back door. Amend soil well as it likes loamy soil. Use one bag each of compost.

‘Limelight’ hydrangeas bloom on new wood. This means that their flower buds are not formed until spring has sprung. This gives you some wiggle room with your pruning schedule.

You may choose to prune in the fall when all of the flowers have passed, or you can prune them in the springtime before any new growth appears. Cut the stalks to about a foot in height.

You can also ignore the advice to prune your hydrangeas every year. It is not necessary. In fact, ‘Limelight’ hydrangeas have such large flowers the older stalks provide excellent support for the new stems.

Spring Chores 2024

Yearly Tasks

• Set up drip irrigation. Roll out and connect hose. Attach water filter and timer. Replace broken emitters or split hoses.

• Top dress beds with compost. Using either harvested from compost bins or bagged compost from Schenectady County Conservation District.  
• Price 3 for $8, get 21 bags next year= $56. Need five to improve bed for Limelight hydrangea, six for Blue Hyssop around perimeter of garden, five for the new cottage corner, five for front porch beds, rhubarb bed and amending all garden beds. 

• Attach the bird netting to the asparagus/ strawberry bed with velcro for easier access.

• Mulch beds: pine straw for strawberries and dried grass clipping for tomatoes

• Remove and store plant covers and wraps.

• Add plants supports before they start growing: Peony, Delphinium, etc…

• Fertilize perennials: Hydrangea, Peony, etc…

Projects Spring 2024

• Corner Cottage Garden

• Limelight Hydrangea

• Front Slope

• Hyssop Garden Border

• New Lavender Bed

• New Perennial Bed

Corner Cottage Garden

• Begin the Corner Cottage Garden

• Dig out weeds and brush.

• Add black fencing as plant support in back corner. Add stakes for twine. 

• Add five (5) bags of compost. 

• Transplant Globe Thistle, Russian sage, Mealy Cup sage, etc…

• Direct sow flowers to use up seeds: Cornflower, Nigella, etc…

• Move Dianthus Arctic Fire to corner to make room for more Lambs Ear in the front of the bed.

Limelight Hydrangea

• Plant Limelight hydrangea along north side of house.

Front Slope

• Soon after sprouting, move Catmint and Veronica to new locations on front slope, Veronica at the top of the bed because it is taller, Catmint in the middle. 

• Divide catmint in the spring. Dig up the parent plant and make a vertical cut to shear through the root ball. Make sure each division has a nice clump of roots and at least three or four stems on it. Once you have divided the plant, replant divisions about a foot apart at the top of the new front slop planting bed.

• Remove small lilac tree to make room for continuing comfrey along right side. Divide Comfrey in Spring 2024 and continue to spread across right side of border.

• As you transplant middle of slope, add back more soil so it is not a sharp wall. Build back up to a more gentle angle.

• Transplant Hydrangea on the bottom of slope to middle in early spring before the first flush of growth. Plant two more hydrangea (Mother's Day).

• Move Caryopteris to the top of the bed. Add spirea Blue Kazoo. The top of the bed under the lilac will eventually be short shrubs: Spirea- Blue Mist and Blue Kazoo.

• Use wood chips to mulch the front slope after planting.

• Eradicate Ox-Eye Daisy. Looked pretty in the front slope, but I will never get rid of it unless I am merciless with weeding! Start early in the spring. Cover any exposed dirt with wood chips. Rearrange stones to cover so they don't slide down the slope.

• Finish cutting down tree next to shed on the front slope. Cut the last overarching branch over front slope.

• Remove rest of mulberry stump on front slope. Plant grass seed in empty spot.

• Apply Ortho Weed B Gone on grass around garden to kill Creeping Charlie. 

• Move Dianthus Arctic Fire to corner bed and divide Lambs Ear and continue across the front of slope.

• If necessary, reapply vine killer to vine on front slope behind shed.

Perennial Border 

• Begin the Perennial Border at the back of the property. Using hose, outline shape of beds. Remove brush and cover (with newspaper and extra wood chips) to kill grass in preparation for fall planting of shrubs.

Misc. 

• Continue to remove rotting stump on south side of house.

• Remove tree leaning on wires on south side of house. 

• Continue to remove ugly brush from east side of house along Zenner Rd, stop at the Forsythia.

• Use top layer of wood chips for mulching front slope and around plants.

• Compost- add grass clippings to wood chips and turn wood chips weekly.

Veggie Garden

• Rhubarb- buy rhubarb plants from Gade farms in early April. Dig and amend the beds by the shed. Add wire cage to protect plants, including top. 

• Add additional fence posts in the middle of the garden fence where it is bending. Add tension wire and stakes in the ground.

• Move the thicker slate stone from sidewalk to in front of the garden gate. Remove broken slate, break up into large slabs and add to the front slope somewhere.

• New Broccoli methods: new bed cover, squeeze in more plants.

• New Zucchini methods: direct sow on mounds and black plastic.

• Move Lavender from herb bed to the front of the garden fence. Add poultry grit  (seems to be True Value is best bet for this) or drainage stones to improve drainage. 

Hyssop Blue Border 

• Dig a nice big hole for each seedling and amend with compost and all purpose fertilizer. 

• V-Trench- make a border on the outside edge of the wood chip mulch by creating a "V" trench to keep lawn out.

• Plant hyssop blue 15" apart, 16 plants each of the two sides of the fence- 32 plants total

• If this works out, continue the back side of fence next year.

Flowers

• V-Trench the bed at the top of slope- daylily, lilac, comfrey- all the way to the back of the shed. Then cover with wood chips.
• Plant Balloon Flower and Yellow Celosia in Garbage can bed.

Fertilize Perennials

• Peony- An annual application of compost mixed with a very small amount of fertilizer around the base of the plant is all that is needed. When you do feed with compost and fertilizer, do it just after the plants have finished blooming.
• Hydrangea Macrophylla- For optimal growth, bloom production, and quality, fertilize three times:
• In early spring when plants are just leafing out
• In early May to boost their flower production for summer
• In late June/early July to help your plants finish the summer strong